As I was assembling my KI.T.T. Dashboard back in Stage 4 , I often wondered if there was enough room to install an actual LCD/LED screen in there. I even looked online at the various screens out there and how I could use them to accomplish this. Well wouldn’t you know it, Mike over at Mike Lane Mods beat me to it. Here, we have his new 2-in-1 Electronic Dashboard Monitors and Power Boost mod!

Included with this mod are a pre-built monitor assembly, cables, USB-C Extension, updated screen bezel, and a cleaning cloth:


Input power: 4.5v-6v DC
Max power consumption: 0.04A @ 5v
Estimated run-time using standard alkaline AAA batteries: 12hrs*
Estimated run-time using Fanhome USB-C rechargeable power bank: 6hrs*
*Performance may vary depending on make and composition of battery and how many other devices are enabled on the model.

On USB-C Power: The screens can be powered by practically anything with a USB-C connection, such as a USB power bank or even a laptop. However, to provide enough power to the whole model and support all its features, a USB-C power adaptor with 4.5v-6v DC Output at a minimum 2A (10W) is recommended. Most phone fast chargers will be suitable, but please check the rating on the adaptor before use.


This mod can be installed at any point after we receive the Dashboard in Stage 4, but it is recommend to install it with or after Stage 44 when the majority of the model’s wiring and lighting arrives. I began the installation after we completed the ComLink wristwatch in Stage 46.


  • In addition to my own install documented on this page, Mike Lane provides full online instructions HERE
  • Before you begin, make sure the model is turned OFF and any batteries/power mods are removed
  • When handling the monitor assembly, try not to touch any of the electronic components

At the Dashboard

Step 1

Retrieve your Dashboard assembly. Here is my assembly after completing the Dashboard in ‘stock’ form during Stage 47:

Remove the following parts from your Dashboard assembly and remove any LEDs from those parts. These parts will be replaced by the mod and are no longer needed:

  • 4C – Lower Right Dashboard Housing (save the Lower Right Instrument Panel from this part)
  • 4D – Monitor Screen Housing
  • 4J – Monitor Screens
  • 4P – Lower Right Button Panel Housing
  • 48H – Dashboard Monitor Base

The Dashboard Monitor Wire and Lights cable (marked ‘H’) is no longer needed and can be discarded or saved for another use:

Step 2

Carefully clean both sides of the new Monitor Bezel with the supplied microfiber cloth. Then, peel the backing paper and carefully stick it onto the existing monitor opening, as shown.

This updated bezel is more accurate to the real car, both in design and size of the openings:

Step 3

Pop your Lower Right Instrument Panel (4I) out of the old Lower Right Dashboard Housing and gently press it into the matching opening of the new Monitor assembly.

Take great care not to bend or put pressure on the LCD screen during this installation:

Step 4

Press the two free LEDs of the Instrument Panel 1 cable (marked ‘J’) into these matching holes of the new Monitor assembly:

Reinsert the LED of the Keypad cable (marked ‘G’) into this matching hole of the new Monitor assembly:

Step 5

Connect the single-wire Black Cable to the G.O. socket of the Monitor assembly, as shown.

Be sure to check the polarity of this connection and do not force it in incorrectly:

Step 6

In the same way, connect the two-wire Black/Grey Cable to the PWR socket of the Monitor assembly, as shown:

Step 7 (Optional – to power with external USB C power source)

If you want to power your model using the onboard AA batteries, skip this step.

However, the 2-in-1 part of this mod is the ability to power your entire model (and these Monitors) from a single USB-C connection:

  • Remove any batteries and/or other power mods. Never use them at the same time with USB-C power.
  • Connect the angled end of the USB-C Cable into the side port of the Monitor assembly, as shown.

Step 8

Gently fit the Monitor assembly into your Dashboard and align the three mounting holes, as shown:

Secure the Monitor assembly to the Dashboard with three (3) BP screws. You can use the BP screws removed in Step 1 or any spares you have collected up to this point in the build:

Step 9

Gently bend the leads of the LED on the Keypad cable (marked ‘G’) slightly down and into the Dashboard, as shown:

Step 10

Route all of the wiring towards the center of the Dashboard:

Step 11

While completing Stage 48, we need to route the USB-C cable a certain way to pass under the Lower Fascia Panel. I disconnected the USB-C cable and laid it near the new Monitor assembly, as shown:

As the Lower Fascial Panel is being fitted, this USB-C cable fits underneath it, as shown:

The USB-C cable can then be gently twisted and re-installed into the Monitor assembly:

Finally, I routed this USB-C cable along the existing wiring to the center of the Dashboard.

This USB-C cable will eventually be routed through the Interior assembly and out the bottom of the car soon (when I build those stages):

At the Circuit Board

Step 1

If you have not already done so, disconnect the Dashboard Monitor Wire and Lights cable (marked ‘H’) and remove it – it is no longer needed:

Step 2

Move the plug of the Instrument Panel 2 cable (marked ‘L’) from the socket L to the now-empty socket H, as shown:

Step 3

Connect the single black wire G.O. cable from the Monitors assembly to the now-empty socket L, as shown:

Step 4A – Powering by USB-C Cable (recommended)

IMPORTANT: It is decision time! If you plan on powering the model (and the Dashboard Monitors) from the included USB-C cable, follow this Step 4A process. If you want to power these items from the onboard AA batteries, follow the Step 4B process below. I used the UBC-C cable on my model.

Disconnect the Battery Box cable (marked ‘C’) from the Circuit Board and tuck it away – it will not be used. This is because we never want to use the AA batteries with the USB-C cable power at the same time:

In its place, connect the grey/black PWR wire of the Monitors assembly to socket C of the Circuit Board:

Step 4B – Powering by onboard AA batteries

NOTE: Powering the model (and the monitors) this way may result in a much shorter battery life.

Disconnect the Battery Box cable (marked ‘C’) from the Circuit Board:

Connect the male plug of the included grey/black wired Y-adapter into socket C of the Circuit Board, as shown:

Reconnect the Battery Box cable to one of the female plugs of the Y-adapter, as shown:

Finally, connect the grey/black PWR wire of the Monitors assembly to the remaining female plug of the Y-adapter:

A Quick Test

I connected the USB-C cable to a high-output power adapter using a high-quality USB-C extension cable. After pushing the ‘power’ button on the watch, the startup sequence activated and these monitors came to life! I made a quick YouTube video and took some pictures here:

TIP: Make sure to use a high-quality USB extension cable and power adapter to supply power to the model. Originally, my model did not power on and it was related to a lower-quality extension cable.

Routing the USB-C Cable

Coming Soon! (I am waiting on those interior parts)


So far, I am in love with these Dashboard Monitors. The fit was superb, the installation was easy, and the result is fantastic! I appreciate that this setup includes its own power mod as well. The videos displayed on the monitors are quite varied and run a long time before repeating. And, with the onboard Micro SD card, we can even use our own video or update the firmware of the mod to add future functionality!

I can not wait to see what Mike Lane Mods comes up with next!