STAGE 66

 Return to the BUILD


“In this issue, the completed interior floor panel, with the seats and instrument panel attached, is mounted in the center section of the chassis.”

This will be another long stage, but with a fantastic outcome!

Contents


Parts

Materials: All of these parts are plastic.

Magazine

  • The Series – Dead of Knight
  • Build Your KI.T.T. – Step by Step

Build


Rear Floor Panel

NOTE: The parts we received with this stage will not be needed in these assembly steps. Store them safely for use in the next stage:

Step 1

Retrieve your Chassis assembly from Stage 44. Disconnect the following cables from the left front corner area of the Chassis:

  • 42D – Left Door Switch (marked ‘B’)
  • 42E – Right Door Switch (marked ‘B’)
  • 42G – Front Light Wire 1 (marked ‘R’)
  • 43B – Headlight Wires (marked m”)
  • 43C – Pop-Up Headlights Motor (marked ‘Mot’)

Step 2

Retrieve your Interior assembly from the previous stage. Gently begin to lower the Interior assembly down onto the Chassis while guiding the remaining plugs of the chassis cables from Step 1 up between the Firewall and the Instrument Panel, as shown.

If you have the Dashboard Monitors and Power Boost mod from Mike Lane installed (and are using the USB power option), first route the end of the black USB-C cable down through this opening behind the engine and out the bottom of the car:

The plugs of the front cables must feed up through this rectangular hole in the Firewall and out the top, as shown:

Then we can finish lowering the Interior assembly down onto the Chassis, as shown. Ensure no wires become trapped or pinched underneath:

Make sure the plugs/wires at the front are pulled up taut, as shown. We want as much wire length available as possible:

I taped these front wires together just to make sure they didn’t fall back behind the Dashboard:

Likewise, make sure the plugs/wires at the rear are coming up at the center of the Interior and are pulled taut:

Step 3

Fit the Interior assembly fully down on the matching posts of the Chassis, as shown.

The Interior should drop into place fairly easily, but make sure these two holes of the Floor Panel are fitted over the matching posts of the Chassis:

Here is a closer view of the post and hole on the right side:

Secure the Interior into place with four (4) GM screws – two at the rear…

… and two at the front (one on each side):

Step 4

Begin connecting the plugs of the wiring at the rear of the Interior assembly to the matching sockets of the Circuit Board, as shown:

  • 44I – Lower Center Console Wire and Light (marked ‘V’) to socket V
  • 44G – Brake Pedal Wire and Switch (marked ‘D’) to socket D
  • 44A – Floor Wire and Lights (marked ‘F’) to socket F

If you have the Dashboard Monitors and Power Boost mod (and are powering the car from the USB-C cable), connect the plug of the supplied grey-white wires into the socket marked ‘C’ – this cable replaces the plug from the stock Battery Box:

Step 5

Continue connecting the plugs of the wiring at the rear of the Interior assembly to the matching sockets of the Circuit Board, as shown:

  • 44B – Keypad Wire and Lights (marked ‘G’) to socket G

  • 44C – Dashboard Monitor Wire and Lights (marked ‘H’) to socket H
  • 44E – Dashboard Instrument Panel 1 Wire and Lights (marked ‘J’) to socket J
  • 44H – Steering Column Wire and Switches (marked ‘I’) to socket I

You will notice that I plugged my wire ‘L’ into socket ‘H’ here – this is part of the Dashboard Monitors and Power Boost mod install. For the stock build, just attach the actual wire ‘H’ to socket ‘H’:

Step 6

Finish connecting the plugs of the wiring at the rear of the Interior assembly to the matching sockets of the Circuit Board, as shown:

  • 44F – Dashboard Instrument Panel 1 Wire and Lights (marked ‘L’) to socket L
  • 44D – Front Panel Wire and Voice Lights (marked ‘O’) to socket O

If you have the Dashboard Monitors and Power Boost mod, connect the plug of the supplied black ‘G.O.’ trigger wire into the socket marked ‘L’. For the stock build, just attach the actual wire ‘L’ to socket ‘L’:

Step 7

Align the tabs at the forward end of the Steering Column over the posts of the upper Steering Cross Joint and secure them together with two (2) GM screws.

Take a moment here to make sure both the Steering Wheel and both Front Wheels are in the centered, straight position. First, retrieve the loose end of the Steering Column:

Slightly lift the front end of the Chassis and gently turn the Front Wheels until the are straight and centered:

Likewise, center the Steering Wheel:

To make this tricky process a bit easier, I recommend pre-threading the holes of the Steering Cross Joint with the GM screws, as shown. Just drive the screws in and then remove them to create threads in the metal. This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Next, align the Steering Cross Joint in between the tabs at the lower end of the Steering Column and secure the first GM screw. I came in with the screwdriver from the side under the Master Cylinder, as shown:

Once this first GM screw is installed, you should be able to lift the Front Wheels off your work surface and gently turn the Steering Wheel to get the other GM screw in from the top:

Step 8

Connect the free end of Radiator Hose 2 (18F) to the base of the Coolant Expansion Tank.

First, let’s determine which hoses we are talking about here. On the passenger side of the engine bay, find these two thick hoses:

Then, route the free end of the Radiator Hose 2 up inside the hole in the bottom of the Coolant Expansion TankIf we look at this picture from Step 9 in the previous stage, you will see this large hole in the bottom of the silver Tank:

I recommend using tweezers here to make things easier. You also may want to cut the length of these Hoses down a bit so they fit better:

Next, connect the free end of AC Tube 1 (28K) to this pin of the Coolant Expansion Tank, as shown.

I also cut the length of this Tube down to fit better in the engine bay:

Then, connect the free end of the Electronic Command Unit Wiring (15I) to the matching pin of the Heater Core Cover.

To keep the engine bay clean, I first routed this Unit Wiring around the back of my Expansion Tank:

Then I slid the free end onto the Heater Core pin. I only needed to trim off a small amount at the end this Wiring tube to make it look the way I wanted:

This is what the routing of these three tubes look like from above on my model:

Step 9

Connect the free end of the Rear Brake Line (31J) to the rear pin of the Brake Master Cylinder (54E), and then connect the free end of the Front Brake Line (10J) to the front pin of the same, as shown.

Be very careful when handling this Master Cylinder. As I was installing these Lines, the Master Cylinder broke off from the Firewall and I needed to super glue it back in place:

Thoughts


We have accomplished so much in these last two stages! It feels like we were just building seats, and now our entire Interior is installed, wired to the Chassis, and the steering system has been connected… crazy! Along with the unused parts supplied with this stage, the five cables we detached from the Chassis should be safely stored until we need them again in a later stage.

Next Up


 Stage 67 – Central Body Structure (Coming Soon)

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