Return to the BUILD
“In this issue, you will assemble the gearbox and the fuel filter with its lines. You will also connect several electrical cables.”
I recommend reading this page completely before starting this stage. I’ve added some important notes regarding all the hoses.
Contents
Parts
Materials: Both Gearbox Cases and the Transmission Seal are metal, but the other parts are plastic.
Magazine
- The Series – Short Notice
- Build Your KI.T.T. – Step by Step
- Secret Files – Computer Graphics
Build
Assembly of the Gearbox
Step 1
Fit the shorter ledge of the Gearbox Bracket onto these small posts of the Gearbox Sump as shown, then secure these parts together with two (2) BP screws:
This part is directional. Make sure the long ledge of the Gearbox Bracket is aligned to the centerline of the Gearbox Sump, as seen here:
Step 2
Fit the longer ledge of the Gearbox Bracket to these matching posts of the Gearbox Case (Left) and secure it into place with two (2) EM screws, as shown.
If the Gearbox Sump does not fit flush against the bottom of the Gearbox Case, you may need to loosen some of these screws a bit. This is also your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:
Step 3
Retrieve your Turbine assembly from the previous stage. Fit this Gearbox Case (Left) to the rounded vertical tab at the rear of the Turbine assembly, as shown:
Secure this Gearbox Case into place with two (2) EM screws, as shown:
Step 4
Fit the Transmission Seal into the narrow end of the Gearbox Case (Left), as shown:
Fit the Gearbox Case (Right) to the Gearbox Case (Left), capturing the Transmission Seal between the parts as shown:
Secure the Gearbox Case (Right) into place with three (3) EM screws.
With this Gearbox Case is assembled, the Transmission Seal should be able to rotate by hand. Keep any remaining EM screws nearby for the next stage:
Step 5
Press the two Fuel Filter parts together, as shown:
Attaching the Hoses
These tiny hoses can be difficult to install just by themselves. Making it more difficult is the fact that the magazines (for this and the next stage) have some problems: the pictures in the magazines can be difficult to see, incorrect hoses are mentioned, and the two Fuel Lines 1 (28H) hoses are used three times. However, after careful study of both our model and the actual A631 Turbine engine, I think we can fix this. I will do my best to explain how I installed these hoses on my model, but these steps will differ a bit from the supplied instructions.
This table should help identify each hose and where I connected them. We will not use the second Fuel Line 1 (28H) in this stage, but keep it nearby for use in the next one. One thing to note: all references to left/right, top/bottom, or front/rear are with the engine right side up and facing away from you:
PART | DIAMETER | LENGTH | FROM | TO |
---|---|---|---|---|
28H | Thin | 6.5 cm | Fuel Filter (28E) - Bottom Pin | Turbine Housing (23C) - Right Pin |
28H | Thin | 6.5 cm | Front Left Wheel Arch (12A) | Negative Battery Terminal (12E) |
28I | Thin | 12cm | Compressor Chamber (27L) | Positive Battery Terminal (12E) |
28J | Thin | 9.5 cm | Air Intake Motor Housing (26H) - End Pin | Turbine Housing (23C) - Left Pin |
28K | Fat | 8 cm | Sleeve Inlet (27I) | Nothing yet - will probably be firewall |
28L | Thin | 13 cm | Generator (27N) - Front Pin | Wiring Terminal 2 (15H) on ECU |
28M | Thin | 3 cm | Fuel Filter (28E) - Side Pin | Generator (27N) - Rear Pin |
28M | Thin | 3 cm | Fuel Filter (28E) - Top Pin | Connector 3 (27O) |
28N | Thin | 3.5 cm | Air Intake Motor Housing (26H) - Side Pin | Ignition (27M) |
Real quick – I wanted to mention that, as before, I added 22 Gauge Craft Wire inside all of these thinner hoses. First, I test fitted each hose and shortened them as needed. Then, I simply cut a piece of the wire shorter than the hose (to allow room for the pins to go into each end) and slid it inside. This quick mod allows me to bend the hoses into any position I choose and they will hold their shape:
Step 6
Slide the two Fuel Line 2 (28M) hoses onto these two pins of the Fuel Filter assembly.
To make installation of these hoses easier, I recommend warming the end of the hose you are about to slide onto a pin. This can be done by dipping it in hot water for a few seconds or even just rolling the end of the hose between your fingertips:
Step 7
Slide the Fuel Line 2 connected to the side of the Fuel Filter onto this rear pin of the Generator (27N) with the other hose pointed towards the top of the engine, as shown:
Slide the Fuel Line 2 connected to the top of the Fuel Filter onto the pin of Connector 3 (27O).
The tension of this hose caused my Connector 3 to pop out of the engine. This is why I recommended using super glue on it in the last stage:
With the Craft Wire inside, I could then bend these hoses into more appropriate shapes. I like that is makes them look nice and clean:
Fit one of the Fuel Line 1 (28H) hoses between the bottom pin of the Fuel Filter and the right pin of the Turbine Housing (23C):
Step 8
Slide one end of the Electrical Control Wire (28L) onto this front pin of the Generator (27N).
We will not connect anything to the center pin of this Generator until a few stages from now:
Route the free end of this Electrical Control Wire up and across the front of the engine, under the Air Intake as shown:
The free end of this hose should come out towards the right side of the engine:
Step 9
Slide the AC Tube 1 (28K) onto this rear pin of the Sleeve Inlet (27I).
I believe this hose eventually connect to the rear firewall:
Step 10
Slide one end of the Ignition Lead Lead 1 (28J) onto the pin at the end of the Air Intake Motor Housing (26H).
This is a different hose than mentioned in the magazines. Just by its name alone, it seems the more appropriate choice here:
Slide the free end of this hose onto left pin of the Turbine Housing (23C):
Step 11
Fit the Ignition Coil Lead 2 (28N) between the side pin of the Air Intake Motor Housing (26H) and the pin of the Ignition (27M).
Step 12
Slide one end of the Positive Battery Cable (28I) onto this pin of the Compressor Chamber.
This hose is also different from the one mentioned in the instructions. As the starter/generator for the actual A831 engine would be located inside the Compressor Chamber, this location makes more sense:
Finally, feed the free end of this Positive Battery Cable towards the left side of the engine, as shown.
I looped this hose through another just to keep it nearby the engine:
Thoughts
I know of many builders who reached this stage and were justifiably confused by these hoses, myself included. It only started to make sense when I worked through the next stage. That is when I realized I needed to come back to this stage and explain how I did my own hoses in much more detail. I hope it helps the next visitors who try to tackle this one!
Next Up
Stage 29 – Chassis Rear Sections, Fuel Line Retainer